A scarf is the first real project for a lot of new knitters. It's long enough that you actually learn the stitch, and simple enough that you're unlikely to give up halfway. The finished scarf can still be a letdown, though: the edges roll inward, the fabric feels stiff, or it stretches out after a few washes. You can avoid most of that before you cast on, by picking the right stitch and the right yarn.
Before you start: 4 questions that shape your scarf
- How much knitting have you done? For a first scarf, pick a stitch you already know or can learn in a few rows. Garter stitch is the usual answer.
- Should it be warm, or light? A slightly thicker acrylic or wool yarn holds more heat than a fine cotton blend.
- How much time do you want to spend? A wide scarf in a simple stitch and medium-weight yarn grows much faster than a narrow one in fine yarn with a busy pattern.
- Who is it for? Length and color don't change the technique, but they do change how much yarn you need to buy.
How to knit a scarf that lies flat: choosing the stitch
The stitch decides whether your scarf stays flat or rolls up at the sides. Stockinette stitch (UK: stocking stitch), where you knit one row and purl the next, is the one that rolls. The smooth side with its rows of little Vs looks great, but the edges curl as soon as the fabric comes off the needles, and on a scarf you see that along both long sides.
Garter stitch, where you knit every row, doesn't curl and is the easiest stitch there is. Ribbing, such as k2, p2, also lies flat and is stretchier, though it pulls in sideways, so cast on about a quarter more stitches than you would for garter. Seed stitch (UK: moss stitch) is flat too and gives a pebbly texture: on an odd number of stitches, work *k1, p1* and end with k1, on every row.
If you really want the smooth stockinette look, add a border of at least 4 to 6 garter stitches on each side, plus a few garter rows at both ends. That stops the sides from flipping over, but a wide stockinette panel can still roll a little in the middle. If you want a guaranteed flat scarf, stick with garter, ribbing or seed stitch. Not sure what all these stitches look like? Knitting stitches for beginners shows each one with its row pattern.
Cables make a beautiful second or third scarf. They're usually worked on a stockinette or reverse stockinette background, so they need a garter or seed stitch edge too, and they pull the fabric in. Cast on extra stitches and expect to concentrate more than with garter or ribbing.
| Stitch | Level | Lies flat? | Good yarn choice |
|---|---|---|---|
| Garter stitch (knit every row) | Beginner | Yes | Durable Comfy |
| 2x2 ribbing (k2, p2) | Beginner | Yes, but pulls in | Durable Comfy |
| Seed stitch (UK: moss stitch) | Advanced beginner | Yes | Durable Cosy Fine |
| Stockinette with garter border | Beginner | Mostly; may still roll a little | Durable Cosy Fine |
| Cables with seed or garter edge | Intermediate | Yes, with the edge | Durable Comfy |
Which yarn works for a scarf
A scarf sits right against your neck, so how the yarn feels matters as much as how warm it is. Durable Comfy is an easy first pick: a soft 100% microfiber acrylic (266 m / 291 yd per 100 g, 3-4 mm needles) that doesn't itch and comes in lots of colors. It works well for garter, ribbing and cables, and it's sturdy enough for the scarf to keep its shape.
For a cooler scarf for spring or fall, Durable Cosy Fine is a nice alternative. It's 58% cotton and 42% acrylic, a little thicker (105 m / 115 yd per 50 g, 4-4.5 mm needles) and less warm than Comfy, with a softer drape. It suits seed stitch or stockinette with a garter border. Wool is warmer than either, and if you go that way, how to wash wool explains how to keep it from felting.
How much yarn you need and how many stitches to cast on
A typical scarf is about 20 cm (8 in) wide and 150 to 180 cm (60 to 70 in) long. In a DK yarn like Comfy that takes roughly 400 to 600 m (440 to 650 yd): two 100 g balls for garter stitch, three for ribbing or cables, because textured stitches eat more yarn. In Cosy Fine, plan on 5 to 6 balls of 50 g.
As a starting point, figure on about 2 stitches per centimeter (5 per inch) in Comfy on 4 mm needles (US 6). That means around 40 stitches for a 20 cm (8 in) scarf. Knit a swatch of about 10 cm (4 in) first to check your own gauge (UK: tension), because everyone knits a little tighter or looser. When you're done measuring, you can unravel the swatch and reuse the yarn.
Easy garter stitch scarf (basic pattern)
- Yarn: 2 balls of Durable Comfy (100 g each); needles: 4 mm (US 6).
- Cast on 40 stitches, or the number your swatch gives you for 20 cm (8 in).
- Knit every row. For neater edges, slip the first stitch of each row purlwise with the yarn in front, then bring the yarn to the back and keep knitting.
- Join a new ball at the start of a row.
- Stop at 150 to 180 cm (60 to 70 in) and bind off (UK: cast off) loosely. Weave in the ends.
Never knitted before? Start with how to knit for beginners, which walks you through casting on, the knit stitch and binding off.
Common mistakes when knitting a scarf
The edges roll. This happens with stockinette and no border. Picking up stitches along the side and adding a border afterwards helps a bit, but it's much easier to plan garter edges from the start, or to choose a stitch that lies flat on its own.
The cast-on edge is tighter or looser than the rest. Then the bottom of the scarf hangs differently from the body. Cast on with the same tension you knit with. If your cast-on is always tight, cast on over a needle one or two sizes bigger.
A new ball changes the color. Hand-dyed or variegated yarn can look different from ball to ball. Join new balls at the start of a row, and with variegated yarn, alternate two balls every two rows so the change blends in.
The scarf gets wider or narrower. Your tension shifts over a few evenings of knitting, or you accidentally add or drop a stitch at the edge. Count your stitches now and then and compare the width with the start.
Finishing: a scarf that keeps its shape
Bind off a bit more loosely than you think you need to. A tight bind-off pulls the end of the scarf narrower, which shows most on garter and ribbing. Then wash the scarf following the yarn label and dry it flat in its final shape. Don't hang a wet scarf: wet wool and acrylic stretch under their own weight, and you won't get that length back out. With acrylic, steam the scarf lightly from above to relax it, but never press the iron down on it.
Fringe on the short ends is optional. It gives a plain garter scarf a finished look and doesn't call for any new technique: cut strands twice the fringe length, fold them in half and pull them through the edge with a crochet hook.
FAQ: knitting a scarf
What's the easiest stitch for a first scarf?
Garter stitch. You knit every row, it doesn't curl, and you only need to learn one stitch.
How much yarn do I need for a scarf?
For a scarf of about 20 x 150-180 cm (8 x 60-70 in) in DK yarn, plan on 400 to 600 m (440 to 650 yd). More for ribbing or cables, less for a narrower scarf.
How many stitches should I cast on for a scarf?
In DK yarn on 4 mm (US 6) needles, around 40 stitches for 20 cm (8 in). Knit a swatch to check, and add about a quarter more for ribbing or cables.
Why does my scarf curl at the edges?
Stockinette stitch curls by nature. Add a garter border of 4 to 6 stitches on each side, or switch to garter, ribbing or seed stitch.
What yarn is warmest for a scarf?
Wool is the warmest. A soft acrylic like Durable Comfy comes close and is easier to wash. Cotton blends are cooler.
Can I crochet a scarf instead?
Yes, and the result is different: a bit firmer, with more texture. See how to crochet a scarf for the crochet version.
Conclusion
Pick a stitch that doesn't curl and a yarn that matches how warm you want the scarf to be, and you're most of the way there. For a first scarf, go for garter stitch or ribbing, give stockinette a garter border, and knit a swatch before you start the real thing.
Want a matching piece? How to knit a hat works in the same yarn and is a good next project.
