Knitting can seem harder than crochet at first, because you're holding two needles and a whole row of stitches at once. Once the basics settle into your hands, though, you'll see why so many people find it relaxing: you repeat the same movement row after row, and the fabric grows right in front of you. This guide takes you from your very first stitch to a finished practice swatch, so you can learn to knit at your own pace.
What you need to start knitting
- A pair of straight knitting needles in a common size. For a first project, 4 to 5 mm (US 6 to 8) works well.
- A smooth, solid-colored yarn of medium thickness, so you can see your stitches clearly.
- Scissors and a blunt tapestry needle for weaving in the ends.
- A bit more patience than with crochet: in knitting, all the stitches of a row sit on the needle at the same time, instead of one loop on a hook.
From swatch to first project: what to expect
| Project | Stitches | Level | Rough time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Practice swatch | Knit stitch, purl stitch | Complete beginner | 1 evening |
| Dishcloth | Garter stitch | Beginner | 1-2 evenings |
| Scarf | Garter stitch or stockinette with a garter border | Beginner | 1-2 weeks |
| Hat | Ribbing, stockinette, decreases | Advanced beginner | 2-3 evenings |
Step 1: cast on
Before you can knit, you need stitches on the needle. The long-tail cast on is the method most beginners learn: you use your thumb and index finger to form loops and place them on the needle one by one. Practice it a few times before starting a project, until the stitches feel even. If you cast on too tightly, the first row will be a struggle, so keep the loops relaxed enough to slide along the needle.
Step 2: the knit stitch
The knit stitch is the first stitch most people learn. With the yarn at the back, insert the right needle from front to back into the first stitch on the left needle, wrap the yarn around the right needle and pull a new loop through. Then let the old stitch slip off the left needle. If you knit every row, you get garter stitch: a flat, ridged fabric that looks the same on both sides.
Step 3: the purl stitch
The purl stitch is basically the knit stitch in reverse. Bring the yarn to the front and insert the needle from back to front. Knit and purl together are the base of almost every knitting pattern, from simple ribbing to complicated cables. Try a few rows of only knit, then a few rows of only purl, so you feel the difference before you start combining them. Knit one row and purl the next, and you get stockinette stitch (UK: stocking stitch), the smooth fabric you see on most sweaters.
Step 4: ribbing, your first real pattern
For ribbing, you alternate knit and purl stitches within a single row, for example knit 2, purl 2 (k2, p2). That gives vertical ribs and a stretchy edge that doesn't curl, which is why ribbing is used for cuffs, hat brims and the bottom of sweaters. Because you switch within the row, it's also good practice for reading your stitches: a knit stitch looks like a smooth V, a purl stitch like a small bump. The knitting stitches for beginners guide explains each of these in more detail.
Common beginner mistakes
Knitting that curls at the edges is one of the most common frustrations, especially with stockinette. It's caused by the natural tension of the stitches and it's normal; it doesn't mean you're doing anything wrong. A border of garter stitch or ribbing, or blocking the piece when it's finished, keeps it flat. Other classics: stitches that seem to multiply (usually the yarn went over the needle by accident when switching between knit and purl) and stitches that vanish (a dropped stitch). Count your stitches every few rows and you'll catch both early.
Step 5: bind off
When your piece is long enough, you bind off (in the UK: cast off). Knit two stitches, then lift the first one over the second and off the needle. Knit one more and repeat, until one loop is left. Cut the yarn and pull it through that last loop. Bind off loosely, especially on ribbing or an edge that needs to stretch, or the top of your work will pull in.
Which yarn should a beginner choose?
A smooth, solid-colored yarn of medium thickness, like Durable Cosy Fine (58% cotton / 42% acrylic, 4-4.5 mm needles, about US 6 to 7), shows your stitches clearly, which makes counting and fixing mistakes much easier. Save the bright variegated or textured yarns for a later project, once you can recognize your stitches without thinking.
Frequently asked questions about learning to knit
Is knitting harder than crochet?
Knitting often feels awkward at first because you use two needles and hold a whole row of stitches at once, while in crochet you usually work one loop at a time. Neither is harder by definition; it's a different hand movement to get used to. Our knitting vs crochet comparison goes into the differences.
What needle size should a beginner use?
Needles of 4 to 5 mm (US 6 to 8) with a medium-weight yarn are a comfortable starting point. Always check the yarn label for the exact size.
How much yarn do I need for a practice swatch?
A swatch of about 15 x 15 cm (6 x 6 in) uses only a small part of a ball, so leftover yarn you already have is fine for practicing.
Why does my knitting curl at the edges?
That happens mostly with stockinette stitch and is caused by the tension between the knit and purl sides. A garter stitch or ribbed border, or blocking the finished piece, helps.
Can I use knitting yarn for crochet, or the other way around?
Yes. Most yarns work for both. The label usually gives a recommended needle size and often a hook size too. If you'd like to try both crafts, our guide to crochet for beginners is a good place to start.
Next step
Once casting on, knit, purl and binding off feel familiar, you're ready for a first real project, like a garter stitch scarf or a dishcloth. Keep your first swatch: it's a nice reminder of where you started, and handy for comparing your tension later on.
